/* finesse · register=brand · A=paper+brick · B=serif400/sans400 · C=editorial-route · D=quiet-css · E=travel-notebook · SOUL=7 SPECTACLE=2 DENSITY=5 */
:root{--paper:#f5f1e7;--sheet:#fcf9f2;--ink:#28382f;--muted:#5c645b;--accent:#a13e2e;--line:rgba(40,56,47,.2);--wash:#e9e3d5;--green:#223e34}
/* Rice paper (#f5f1e7): page. Pine ink (#28382f): body. Fired brick (#a13e2e): actions. Sage grey (#5c645b): secondary text. */
*{box-sizing:border-box}html,body{margin:0;overflow-x:clip}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:6rem}body{background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:17px/1.7 -apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,"Segoe UI",sans-serif}a{color:inherit;text-underline-offset:.2em}a:hover{color:var(--accent)}a:focus-visible,button:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--accent);outline-offset:5px}h1,h2,h3,p,figure{margin:0}h1,h2,h3{font-family:Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;font-weight:400;line-height:1.12;overflow-wrap:anywhere;min-width:0}h1{font-size:clamp(3rem,6.4vw,6.6rem);letter-spacing:-.055em}h2{font-size:clamp(2rem,3.4vw,3rem);letter-spacing:-.035em}h3{font-size:1.7rem;letter-spacing:-.02em}p+p{margin-top:1rem}.wrap{width:min(1184px,calc(100% - 80px));margin-inline:auto}.skip{position:absolute;top:-100px;left:12px;padding:10px;background:var(--sheet);z-index:20}.skip:focus{top:10px}.site-header{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--paper)}.header-inner{min-height:86px;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px}.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;text-decoration:none;line-height:1.1;white-space:nowrap}.seal{display:grid;place-items:center;width:40px;height:43px;background:var(--accent);color:var(--sheet);font:22px/1 Georgia,serif;border-radius:2px}.brand strong{font:600 19px/1.25 Georgia,serif}.brand small{display:block;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.13em;margin-top:5px;text-transform:uppercase}.desktop-nav{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:24px}.desktop-nav a,.footer-links a{font-size:14px;min-height:44px;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;white-space:nowrap}.desktop-nav a{text-decoration:none}.desktop-nav a[aria-current=page]{color:var(--accent);text-decoration:underline}.language{border-left:1px solid var(--line);padding-left:22px}.mobile-menu{display:none}.hero{padding-block:76px 64px}.hero-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1.12fr) minmax(0,.88fr);gap:56px;align-items:center}.eyebrow{font-size:12px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.13em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--accent);margin-bottom:24px}.hero h1 .line{display:block}.intro{font-size:19px;line-height:1.7;max-width:620px;margin-top:28px;color:var(--muted)}.actions{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px;margin-top:30px}.button{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;min-height:48px;padding:10px 20px;border:1px solid var(--ink);text-decoration:none;font-size:14px;font-weight:600;white-space:nowrap}.button.primary{background:var(--ink);color:var(--sheet)}.button:hover{background:var(--accent);color:var(--sheet);border-color:var(--accent)}.atlas{background:var(--green);color:var(--paper);padding:28px 26px 20px;border-radius:120px 120px 3px 3px;position:relative;overflow:hidden}.atlas svg{display:block;width:100%;height:auto}.atlas figcaption{font-size:11px;color:#d8dfd5;text-align:center;line-height:1.5;margin-top:12px}.atlas .route{fill:none;stroke:#d5ac7e;stroke-width:3;stroke-dasharray:6 7}.atlas text{font-family:-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,"Segoe UI",sans-serif;fill:var(--paper)}.atlas .zh{fill:#d8dfd5;font-size:13px}.atlas .dot{fill:var(--green);stroke:#d5ac7e;stroke-width:3}.atlas .contour{fill:none;stroke:#577165;stroke-width:1;opacity:.55}.trust-band{border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px 30px;padding-block:17px;font-size:13px;color:var(--muted)}.trust-band span:before{content:'•';color:var(--accent);margin-right:10px}.section{padding-block:64px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.split{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,.8fr) minmax(0,1.2fr);gap:70px}.section p{max-width:710px}.section-head{display:flex;align-items:end;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px;margin-bottom:32px}.section-head>a{font-size:14px;white-space:nowrap}.route-choice{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:0;border:1px solid var(--line)}.route-card{padding:36px;display:block;text-decoration:none;transition:background .2s}.route-card+.route-card{border-left:1px solid var(--line)}.route-card:hover{background:var(--wash)}.route-card .big{font:64px/1 Georgia,serif;color:var(--accent)}.route-card h3{margin:14px 0}.route-card p{color:var(--muted);font-size:16px}.route-card .arrow{display:block;margin-top:28px;font-size:14px;text-decoration:underline}.entry-list{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:32px}.entry-list a{display:block;text-decoration:none;padding-top:20px;border-top:2px solid var(--ink)}.entry-list h3{margin-bottom:12px}.entry-list p{font-size:15px;color:var(--muted)}.entry-list .arrow{display:block;margin-top:18px;color:var(--accent)}.article-hero{padding-block:52px}.breadcrumbs{font-size:13px;display:flex;gap:10px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-bottom:30px;color:var(--muted)}.breadcrumbs a{min-height:30px}.article-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 238px;gap:80px;padding-bottom:60px}.article-body{min-width:0}.article-section{padding-block:32px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);scroll-margin-top:24px}.article-section h2{font-size:30px;margin-bottom:20px}.article-section p{max-width:760px}.side-note{padding:22px;background:var(--wash);font-size:14px;align-self:start}.side-note h2{font-family:inherit;font-size:15px;font-weight:650;margin-bottom:16px}.side-note a{display:block;padding-block:9px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);font-size:13px}.side-note p{margin-top:20px;font-size:13px;color:var(--muted)}.places{display:grid;gap:24px}.place{background:var(--sheet);padding:30px;border:1px solid var(--line);scroll-margin-top:20px}.place h3{margin-bottom:10px}.place .chinese{font-family:Georgia,"Songti SC",serif;color:var(--accent);font-size:24px;margin-bottom:16px}.place p{font-size:16px}.place .practical{border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:22px;padding-top:18px;font-size:14px}.address{display:block;margin-top:10px;font-size:15px;user-select:all;overflow-wrap:anywhere}.place .map-link{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;min-height:44px;font-size:14px;margin-top:8px}.source-inline{font-size:12px!important;color:var(--muted);margin-top:16px}.source-inline a{display:inline}.sources{background:var(--wash);padding:30px;margin-top:32px}.sources h2{font:600 15px/1.4 -apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,"Segoe UI",sans-serif;margin-bottom:12px}.sources ul{padding-left:20px;margin-block:0}.sources li{font-size:13px;padding-block:5px;overflow-wrap:anywhere}.sources p{font-size:12px;margin-top:14px;color:var(--muted)}.reading-next{padding:44px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px}.reading-next h2{font-size:30px}.site-footer{background:var(--green);color:var(--paper);padding-block:42px 26px}.footer-top{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:36px;align-items:start}.footer-top p{font-size:13px;max-width:390px;color:#d8dfd5;margin-top:14px}.footer-links{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:end;gap:0 20px;max-width:480px}.footer-links a:hover{color:#ebba99}.footer-bottom{margin-top:32px;padding-top:20px;border-top:1px solid #577165;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:16px;font-size:11px;color:#d8dfd5}.note{font-size:14px;padding:22px;background:var(--wash);margin-top:24px}.phrase{font-size:clamp(1.4rem,3vw,2rem);line-height:1.5;user-select:all;color:var(--accent);margin-block:24px}.status-notice{border:1px dashed var(--accent);padding:16px;margin-top:24px;font-size:14px}.sr-only{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;padding:0;margin:-1px;overflow:hidden;clip:rect(0,0,0,0);white-space:nowrap;border:0}
@media(max-width:960px){.wrap{width:calc(100% - 48px)}.desktop-nav{gap:14px}.hero-grid{gap:30px}.article-grid{gap:36px;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 210px}.split{gap:36px}.brand small{font-size:9px}}
@media(max-width:760px){.wrap{width:calc(100% - 36px)}.header-inner{min-height:74px}.desktop-nav{display:none}.mobile-menu{display:block;position:relative}.mobile-menu summary{list-style:none;cursor:pointer;font-size:14px;min-height:44px;display:flex;align-items:center;padding:8px}.mobile-menu summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}.mobile-menu nav{position:absolute;right:0;top:48px;width:230px;background:var(--sheet);border:1px solid var(--line);padding:12px;z-index:10;box-shadow:0 12px 24px rgba(40,56,47,.1)}.mobile-menu nav a{display:block;padding:12px;min-height:44px;font-size:14px}.hero{padding-block:44px}.hero-grid{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr);gap:36px}.hero h1{font-size:clamp(3rem,10.5vw,5rem)}.intro{font-size:17px;margin-top:22px}.atlas{max-width:520px;width:100%;margin-inline:auto;padding:26px 22px 20px}.atlas svg{max-height:390px}.eyebrow{font-size:11px;margin-bottom:20px}.trust-band{gap:10px 18px;font-size:12px}.section{padding-block:40px}.split,.route-choice,.entry-list,.article-grid{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr);gap:24px}.route-choice{gap:0}.route-card{padding:26px}.route-card+.route-card{border-left:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.route-card .big{font-size:48px}.entry-list{gap:30px}.section-head{align-items:start;flex-direction:column;gap:12px}.article-hero{padding-block:32px}.article-hero h1{font-size:clamp(2.6rem,9vw,4.5rem)}.article-grid{padding-bottom:36px}.side-note{grid-row:1}.side-note a{display:inline-flex;padding:8px 0;margin-right:18px;min-height:44px}.side-note p{margin-top:10px}.article-section{padding-block:28px}.article-section h2{font-size:27px}.place{padding:22px}.sources{padding:22px}.footer-top,.footer-bottom,.reading-next{flex-direction:column;align-items:start}.footer-links{justify-content:start;gap:0 18px}.footer-bottom{gap:12px}.reading-next{padding-block:32px}.breadcrumbs{margin-bottom:24px}.button{padding-inline:16px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*{transition:none!important;animation:none!important}}
@media print{.site-header,.site-footer,.actions,.side-note,.map-link,.reading-next{display:none}.wrap{width:100%}.hero,.article-hero{padding-block:12px}.article-grid,.hero-grid,.split{display:block}.atlas{display:none}.place,.article-section{break-inside:avoid}a{color:inherit}body{font-size:12pt}}
.feedback-form{display:grid;gap:10px;margin-top:20px}.feedback-form label{font-size:15px;font-weight:600;margin-top:14px}.feedback-form label span{font-weight:400;color:var(--muted)}.feedback-form input,.feedback-form textarea,.feedback-form select{width:100%;min-width:0;border:1px solid var(--muted);border-radius:0;background:var(--sheet);color:var(--ink);font:inherit;padding:12px;min-height:48px}.feedback-form textarea{resize:vertical}.feedback-form .button{justify-self:start;margin-top:12px;cursor:pointer;font-family:inherit}.feedback-form input:focus-visible,.feedback-form textarea:focus-visible,.feedback-form select:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--accent);outline-offset:3px}.form-help{font-size:13px!important;color:var(--muted)}.form-trap{position:absolute;left:-10000px;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden}

html[lang="zh-CN"] h1{font-size:clamp(2rem,5vw,4rem);line-height:1.25;letter-spacing:-.02em;text-wrap:balance}

.travel-photo{margin:0 0 1rem;min-width:0}.travel-photo img{display:block;width:100%;aspect-ratio:16/10;object-fit:cover;border-radius:8px}.travel-photo figcaption{font-size:.82rem;line-height:1.5;padding-top:.5rem}.travel-photo a{text-decoration:underline}